How to Tell if Pearls Are Real or Fake

For centuries, pearls have symbolised purity, elegance and sophistication. However, with the rise of high-quality imitation pearls, identifying real pearls can be challenging. 

This guide will walk you through essential tips and tests to help you tell if pearls are real or fake.

What Are Real Pearls?

Real pearls form inside molluscs, such as oysters or mussels, when a foreign substance, like a grain of sand, becomes lodged inside the shell. As a defence, the mollusc secretes layers of nacre—a composite of calcium carbonate and conchiolin—to coat the irritant, eventually creating a pearl. 

Pearls that form in nature without human interference are called natural pearls and are incredibly rare. Cultured pearls, however, are “seeded” with a nucleus by pearl farmers but still develop within a mollusc, making them real and highly valued.

Natural and cultured pearls vary in shape, size and colour depending on factors like the type of mollusc and the environment. They come in different varieties, such as Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea pearls, each with unique characteristics.

What Are Fake Pearls?

Fake pearls, also called imitation or simulated pearls, are artificially created to mimic the appearance of real pearls. These replicas are typically made from materials like glass, plastic or ceramic, coated with a substance to resemble nacre. While some imitations are very convincing, they lack the depth, lustre and natural weight of real pearls. Fake pearls are mass-produced, making them more affordable but significantly less valuable.

How To Tell If Pearls Are Real 

1. Touch and Feel the Temperature

A quick way to check if pearls are real is by touching them. Real pearls feel cool to the touch and warm up slowly when held, a result of their dense nacre layers. Fake pearls made from plastic warm up immediately, making this an easy initial test for authenticity.

2. Look for Tiny Irregularities

Natural and cultured pearls are organic products, so they rarely have a perfect shape or flawless surface. Instead, real pearls have unique imperfections, such as slight ridges or irregularities, which enhance their character and beauty. On the other hand, fake pearls are usually manufactured to look identical, often appearing overly smooth and perfect.

3. Examine the Colour

Real pearls possess a natural depth of colour and often display overtones—a secondary hue that overlays the main body colour. For example, a white pearl might have a subtle pink or green tint when viewed under different lighting. Fake pearls, however, generally lack this depth and have a flat, uniform colour.

4. Observe the Shape

Perfectly round pearls are rare and more valuable, but even then, slight asymmetry is a good sign of authenticity. Real pearls come in various shapes, including baroque (irregular) shapes, particularly in freshwater pearls. If you encounter pearls that are all perfectly round, they may be imitation.

5. Rub the Pearls to Check Surface Feel

A well-known test involves rubbing two pearls together or rubbing a pearl gently against your teeth. Real pearls feel slightly gritty due to their layered nacre structure, while fake pearls, coated with smooth material, glide against each other effortlessly.

6. Feel the Weight

Authentic pearls feel heavier than plastic pearls, thanks to their nacre layers. While glass imitations may mimic this weight, plastic pearls are noticeably lighter, making this an effective test when comparing pearls in hand.

7. Check Drill Holes

Examining drill holes can provide insights into pearl authenticity. Real pearls typically have small, clean drill holes with little chipping, while fake pearls often show uneven or larger holes, sometimes with coating peeling around the edges. For strung pearls, inspect several holes along the strand to look for inconsistencies.

Five Simple Tests to Identify Real Pearls

The Tooth Test

The tooth test involves gently rubbing a pearl against your teeth. Real pearls feel gritty or sandy due to their natural surface, while fake pearls feel smooth, indicating a manufactured coating.

The Vinegar Test

Real pearls react when submerged in vinegar due to their calcium carbonate composition, creating tiny bubbles. However, this test should be used with caution, as the vinegar could damage the pearl. It’s best reserved for older pearls of uncertain value.

The Weight Test

As mentioned earlier, real pearls tend to feel denser than most imitation options, especially compared to plastic-based imitations. Feeling the weight difference is helpful if you’re comparing multiple strands or individual pearls.

The Light Test

Hold the pearl under different types of lighting. Real pearls react to natural and artificial light differently, revealing their layered nacre, which gives a unique play of light. Fake pearls, especially those with synthetic coatings, will have a consistent shine but lack this layered depth.

UV Light Test

Some pearl experts use UV light to spot fakes, as real pearls generally don’t fluoresce under UV light, whereas some synthetic pearls emit a glow. This test can be helpful for discerning genuine pearls from certain types of high-quality imitations.

How To Ensure You Buy Real Pearls

Buy from Reputable Pearl Sellers

One of the most straightforward ways to ensure pearl authenticity is to purchase from reputable jewellers. Established jewellers or trusted pearl specialists often provide a certificate of authenticity and may have a return policy, which adds peace of mind when investing in pearls.

Know the Types of Pearls You’re Buying

Understanding the different types of pearls can help you assess authenticity and value. Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls each have distinct characteristics. Akoya pearls are typically small and highly lustrous, while Tahitian pearls are known for their darker colours and South Sea pearls for their size and golden hues.

How to Tell if Different Types of Pearls Are Real

How to Tell if Tahitian Pearls Are Real

Tahitian pearls are unique for their darker shades, often ranging from grey to deep black with green, blue, or purple overtones. Real Tahitian pearls have a naturally high lustre and slight variations in colour across the surface. Fake Tahitian pearls may appear uniformly dark without the deep, complex colours seen in genuine pearls.

How to Tell if South Sea Pearls Are Real

South Sea pearls, typically larger and golden or silvery white, are highly prized. Authentic South Sea pearls have a thicker nacre layer and a noticeable lustre. Due to their size, genuine South Sea pearls are rarely perfectly round and may show slight irregularities in shape, making it easy to spot fakes, which often lack this lustre and are uniformly shaped.

How to Tell if Akoya Pearls Are Real

Akoya pearls are famed for their round shape and brilliant lustre, often with pink or silver overtones. Authentic Akoya pearls will have a soft, almost mirror-like reflection and should feel gritty if rubbed together. Fake Akoya pearls may look too glossy, and when closely inspected, they lack the depth and radiance of genuine pearls.

Conclusion

By closely inspecting pearls, checking their weight, colour and temperature, you can tell real pearls from fake pearls.

For a stunning selection of authentic pearl rings, pearl pendants and pearl earrings, visit Evert Fine Jewellery or shop online today!